How to find the value of an antique: a step-by-step method

Value comes from evidence, not guesswork: first identify exactly what the object is (maker, period, material), then judge its condition, then compare it with completed sales of closely matching items, never with asking prices. For anything that may be worth a significant sum, or for insurance, tax or legal purposes, hire a qualified appraiser.

By the Antique ID team · Updated 2026-10-13

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Step 1: identify exactly what you have

Almost every valuation mistake starts with a loose identification. "An old blue and white plate" can be worth a few dollars or many thousands depending on the maker, the period, the pattern and whether it is a later copy. Gather the evidence the object carries:

• Marks. Look under bases, inside lids, on the backs of spoons and frames. Our guides explain pottery and porcelain marks, silver hallmarks and gold jewelry stamps.
• Construction. Joinery, tool marks and fasteners date furniture; see how to date antique furniture. Mold seams, pontil scars and finishes date bottles and glass.
• Materials. Sterling or plate, jade or serpentine, a painting or a print. See original or print.
• Labels, paperwork and family history. Receipts, old photographs and letters can establish provenance, which can add real value.

Write down measurements and weight, and take clear photographs of every side, the marks and any damage. You will need them for every later step.

Step 2: assess condition and originality

Condition often moves value more than age. The IRS, in its guidance on valuing donated art and antiques, notes that physical condition and the extent of restoration are both relevant, and gives the example that an antique in damaged condition lacking its original brasses may be worth much less than a similar piece in excellent condition. Check for chips, cracks, hairlines, crazing, repairs, replaced parts, refinishing, missing pieces and fading. Be honest: comparing a damaged item with perfect examples is the most common reason people overestimate value.

Step 3: compare with sold prices, not asking prices

Asking prices on marketplaces and dealer sites show what sellers hope to get. What matters is what buyers actually paid. Use:

• Completed or sold listings on online marketplaces, filtered to sold items.
• Auction archives, where many auction houses publish prices realized for past lots.
• Price guides and reference books, keeping in mind that printed prices date quickly.

A useful comparable matches on maker, model or pattern, size, period, material and condition, and sold recently. Note the date of each sale and whether the price includes the buyer's premium. Treat a single spectacular result with caution; look for a pattern across several sales. The IRS describes the same logic for art: comparable sales of similar works sold close to the valuation date, the state of the market, and the standing of the artist.

Step 4: know which value you need

These numbers can differ widely for the same object, and none of them is "wrong". Make sure the figure you rely on is the right kind for your purpose.

Step 5: when to hire an appraiser

Get a formal appraisal when the stakes are high: insurance schedules, estates, divorce, charitable donations, or selling something that may be valuable. In the United States the IRS requires a qualified appraisal, and a Form 8283, for non-cash donations claimed at more than $5,000, and asks the appraiser to use reasonable diligence on authenticity, for example by checking a catalogue raisonné for art.

Look for an appraiser who specializes in your type of object and belongs to a professional body with an ethics code and testing, such as the American Society of Appraisers, the Appraisers Association of America or the International Society of Appraisers. In the US, many personal property appraisers follow USPAP, the Uniform Standards of Professional Appraisal Practice. USPAP treats a fee based on a percentage of the appraised value as a conflict of interest, so expect a flat or hourly fee, and be wary of an appraiser who offers to buy the item they have just valued. Museums often run identification days but generally do not give valuations.

What drives value

Across categories, the same factors recur: who made it and how well, rarity, condition and originality, authenticity, provenance, size and practicality, and collecting fashion, which changes over time. That is why a dated, sourced sale tells you more than a figure in an old price guide.

For a quick first read, photograph the item and its marks and scan them with Antique ID. It identifies likely makers and periods and gives an estimated value range, so you can decide whether an item deserves a closer look. An estimate is not an appraisal. For anything that may be valuable, consult a qualified appraiser or a specialist at a reputable auction house.

Identify your antique in seconds

Antique ID identifies an item from a photo, reads visible maker's marks, suggests a period and gives an estimated value range, so you know whether it deserves a closer look.