Noritake marks: dating Nippon, Japan and Occupied Japan backstamps
The country word on the base is the quickest date clue: NIPPON points to export porcelain from about 1891 to 1921, JAPAN or MADE IN JAPAN to 1921 or later, and OCCUPIED JAPAN to 1947–1952. Noritake's own marks then narrow the date, but Morimura's wreath mark is one of the most faked marks in porcelain.
- Trading roots
- Morimura Gumi, 1876; Morimura Brothers store in New York
- Factory company
- Nippon Toki Gomei Kaisha, 1904 (today Noritake Co., Limited)
- NIPPON
- About 1891–1921
- JAPAN / MADE IN JAPAN
- 1921 onward
- OCCUPIED JAPAN
- 1947–1952
- Most faked mark
- Morimura's M in a wreath
A short history behind the marks
Noritake's company history begins with trade, not a factory. In 1876 Ichizaemon Morimura set up the trading firm Morimura Gumi and sent his brother Toyo to New York to open an imported goods store, Morimura Brothers. In 1904 the group founded Nippon Toki Gomei Kaisha, the forerunner of today's Noritake Co., Limited. The company timeline records Japan's first Western-style dinner set in 1914, bulk tableware orders from the Larkin Company of the United States in 1915, a U.S. distributor, Noritake Co., Inc., in 1947, and the change of the parent company's name to Noritake Co., Limited only in 1981.
That history explains why marks on early pieces may mention Morimura or simply carry a wreath or leaf device, and why the word Noritake itself is not always present on older ware.
How to date the country mark
Section 6 of the U.S. Tariff Act of 1890 required, from 1 March 1891, that imported goods be marked in legible English words with their country of origin. Japanese exporters used Nippon, the Japanese name for Japan. The International Nippon Collectors Club dates the Nippon era from 1891 to 1921 and explains that a U.S. Treasury decision in 1921 ended it by requiring the name Japan. The Texas Historical Commission summarises the same change: from 1921, Nippon and Nihon branding had to become “Japan”.
| Country mark | Typical date | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| No country mark | Before 1891, or for the home market | Also seen where a paper label has been lost |
| NIPPON | About 1891–1921 | Any Japanese exporter, not only Noritake |
| JAPAN or MADE IN JAPAN | 1921 and later | Continues through the 20th century |
| MADE IN OCCUPIED JAPAN or OCCUPIED JAPAN | 1947–1952 | Required on exports during the Allied occupation |
The Occupied Japan window is narrower than the occupation itself. Japan was occupied from 1945, but the Mizuta Museum of Art at Josai International University notes that exports had to be labelled Made in Occupied Japan from when civilian trade resumed in 1947 until 1952. The Texas Historical Commission links the order to General MacArthur.
Morimura and Noritake marks of the Nippon era
The International Nippon Collectors Club identifies the main Morimura marks of the period as the Maple Leaf, used about 1891–1911 in green, blue or red, and the M in Wreath, used 1911–1921 in green, blue, red or gold. Morimura also used marks known to collectors as RC and Rising Sun. After 1921 the country word changed to Japan, while the company's own devices continued to evolve; Noritake-named backstamps are common on 20th-century dinnerware.
Many backstamps also include wording such as HAND PAINTED, a pattern name or a registration number. Note every element: dinnerware sets can be matched by pattern, and pattern names are usually more useful than the device itself for later pieces.
Fake Nippon marks and how to spot them
Because Nippon porcelain became collectible, reproductions with fake marks are common. The club's reproduction notes say fakers first copied Morimura marks because they were the most lucrative. Early copies were loose, but later ones came very close to the M in Wreath. U.S. Customs ruled the fake wreath mark counterfeit, after which importers shipped wares with easily removed paper labels. Other points from the club's guidance:
- Finish: fakes tend to have a dull finish and lack the variety of techniques of genuine pieces; blurred background effects can look dirty.
- Gold: genuine gilding is lustrous with a warm patina; fake gold is often brassy, harsh or poorly applied.
- Glaze and body: genuine late Maple Leaf, M in Wreath and RC pieces are bright white, thin, light and translucent, with an even, smooth glaze. Early Maple Leaf porcelain may be greyer.
- Techniques: the club had not found fakes attempting sophisticated work such as coralene, sharkskin or moriage.
- Common targets: a “Wildflower” design is a frequent fake, and doll backstamps are among the easiest to copy.
An unfamiliar mark is not automatically fake; the club points out that some genuine marks are rarely seen. Compare against documented examples before deciding.
What drives value
For Nippon-era pieces, quality of decoration matters most: elaborate techniques such as moriage and coralene, rich gold and fine painting attract collectors, while plainer wares are more common. Size, form, condition of gold and the presence of a documented genuine mark follow. For later Noritake dinnerware, the pattern, completeness of a set and condition drive interest.
Next steps
Photograph the backstamp straight on, then scan the piece with Antique ID for an identification and an estimated value. The estimate is a guide, not an appraisal; for a high-quality Nippon piece, ask a specialist to confirm the mark and decoration. For marks in general, see how to identify pottery marks.
Frequently asked questions
What years is Nippon porcelain?
Nippon-marked export porcelain dates from about 1891, when a U.S. law required imports to name their country of origin, to 1921, when a U.S. Treasury decision ended the use of Nippon and required Japan instead.
Is all Nippon porcelain made by Noritake?
No. Nippon is simply the Japanese name for Japan, used as a country mark by many makers and exporters. Noritake's predecessors used their own marks, such as the M in a wreath, alongside the word Nippon.
How can you tell a fake Nippon mark?
Compare the mark with documented genuine versions and look at the whole piece. The International Nippon Collectors Club notes that fakes often have a dull finish, brassy or poorly applied gold, and simpler techniques than genuine pieces.
When was Occupied Japan used on porcelain?
Japanese exports had to be labelled Made in Occupied Japan or Occupied Japan from 1947, when civilian trade resumed, until 1952, when the occupation ended.
Identify your antique in seconds
Antique ID identifies an item from a photo, reads visible maker's marks, suggests a period and gives an estimated value range, so you know whether it deserves a closer look.
Sources
- Noritake Co., Limited: History of Noritake (accessed 2026-10-13)
- Noritake Co., Limited: Historical record (company timeline) (accessed 2026-10-13)
- International Nippon Collectors Club: What is the Nippon Era? (accessed 2026-10-13)
- International Nippon Collectors Club: Reproductions alerts (accessed 2026-10-13)
- Texas Historical Commission: A bit of the East in East Texas, Japanese artifacts at the Rayburn House (accessed 2026-10-13)
- Mizuta Museum of Art, Josai International University: Made in Occupied Japan tableware exhibition (accessed 2026-10-13)
- Tariff Act of 1890 (McKinley Tariff), Sec. 6, full text on FRASER, Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis (accessed 2026-10-13)
Related guides
- How to identify pottery marks and date a piece from its backstampHow to identify pottery marks: impressed vs printed vs painted marks, under or over the glaze, country names after 1891, British registration diamonds and Rd numbers.
- Limoges marks: how to tell who made and who decorated your porcelainHow to read Limoges porcelain marks: Limoges is a place, not a maker. Factory marks under the glaze vs decorator marks over it, Haviland, France and Déposé.
- Fiesta dinnerware marks: vintage or post-86, and what about the red?How to tell vintage Fiesta from post-1986 Fiesta: backstamps, date codes, colors by year, and the facts on uranium in vintage red glaze from ORAU and NRC data.
- How to find the value of an antique: a step-by-step methodHow to find what an antique is worth: identify it, check condition, compare sold prices (not asking prices), pick the right kind of value, and when to hire an appraiser.